How to build a skincare regime that will help shine-prone skin, according to the beauty experts
Oily skin – scourge of the desk-to-dinner makeup look and all-round foundation foe. Whether you view yours as a blessing (less wrinkles) or a curse (bigger pores), most oily types will agree that their complexions require a targeted approach when it comes to skincare.
Contrary to popular belief however, a regime dedicated to oily skin doesn’t simply mean stripping away sebum (which can actually prove counterproductive). ‘Overwashing your face can cause your skin to overcompensate by producing more oil while stimulating the sebaceous glands,’ says Dr Benji Dhillon, cosmetic surgeon and co-founder of Define Clinic. ‘A variety of factors can cause oily skin – from genetics and hormones to environmental factors such as the weather and even stress – but the result is an overproduction of sebum from the glands in your skin which sit within the pores.’
While, for the most part, oily skin translates as nothing more sinister than a daily battle with blotting papers, it can lead to more challenging skin issues according to Dhillon. ‘Oiliness can disrupt the skin’s surface and cause inflammation lower down in the dermis resulting in redness or exacerbating rosacea for people who suffer from it.’
How to curb the shine so that you end up looking more glowy than greasy? Time for an oily skin overhaul…
CLEAN AND SERENE
‘Make sure you wash your face both morning and evening,’ says consultant dermatologist Dr Sharon Wong. ‘In the evening use a micellar water to ensure all makeup is thoroughly removed before using an oil-free face wash that is specifically formulated for oily and acne-prone skin for a second cleanse.’
Dr Wong adds that while oil-reducing actives such as glycolic acid (an AHA) can help to exfoliate the skin and unplug pores, some anti-active ingredients can be drying, so it’s important not to skip your moisturiser.
“Make sure you wash your face both morning and evening”
DEEP IMPACT
‘Once a week, use a chemical exfoliant (harsh scrubs can irritate) which usually contains AHAs or BHAs at higher strengths than face washes,’ says Dr Wong. ‘This is important for a deeper cleanse, to maintain healthy cell turnover, and to enable actives to be better absorbed into the skin. With continued use, this will improve the overall health and condition of the skin.’
SLATHER UP
‘Start with a vitamin C serum before applying a gentle, lightweight moisturiser,’ says Dr Dhillon. ‘Don’t over-moisturise your skin or use thick emollients. Instead, aim to moisturise based on how the skin feels.’ Dr Wong adds that if wearing sunscreen (which everyone should do, regardless of the weather) ensure that it’s an oil-free formula to avoid clogging pores. ‘Blotting papers are also helpful during the day to mop up excess sebum when oil production is at its peak in order to prevent it sitting on the skin,’ she adds.
“Don’t over-moisturise your skin or use thick emollients. Instead, aim to moisturise based on how the skin feels”
THE A LIST
‘Retinoids (vitamin A-derived compounds) are a really helpful step to add to your night-time routine,’ says Dr Wong. ‘With consistent use, retinoids can help to reduce congestion and comedonal acne (whiteheads and blackheads). If you are new to retinoids, always start at the lowest strength a couple of nights a week, and build up gradually.’
