COLOURCODE
How to do colourful eye make up
COLOURCODE
Cassie Steer,-Beauty editor at large

Up your festive makeup game with a joyous foray into colour

Put down the grey eyeshadow palette: it’s time to step out of your chroma comfort zone. Colour is a powerful communication tool known to influence both mood and behaviour, so it stands to reason that daubing it on our faces is a sure-fire way to elicit festive cheer. Perhaps it represented the perfect antidote to a somber start to the year, but designers clearly felt the need to up the ante when it came to makeup on the runways. The result was a confection of contrasting colours that brightened the Autumn/Winter 2020 catwalks everywhere from Miu Miu to Bora Aksu.

‘People are often reticent about wearing colour anywhere other than the lips, but I always think that if everything else is quite neutral you can be a bit more playful on the eyes,’ says makeup artist Kim Brown.

‘Playful’ is definitely the key here  – the first rule of colour club is: there are no rules. When it came to colour combinations on the catwalk, it was a case of anything goes with makeup artists backstage opting for painterly swatches and swipes that didn’t require a fine-art degree to emulate.

‘If you’re wearing a nice black dress this trend can elevate your whole outfit and add a touch of colour to your look,’ says Brown, who also notes that ‘colour’ needn’t mean bright. Opt for washes of autumnal hues such as russets and ochres with a smattering of modern shimmer for a more wearable take. ‘There are so many easy ways of adding in colour to your makeup look,’ she explains. ‘If you’re doing a smokey eye for example, you can add a pop of colour to the inner corners for a touch of interest. Or you can literally just pat it onto the centre of your bare lids using your ring finger.’ Alternatively, Brown suggests simply swapping your usual black eyeliner for a blue, teal or purple to give a contemporary take on a classic flick.

Brown recommends keeping skin on the more natural side of things with a BB cream, tinted moisturiser or sheer coverage foundation in order to stop you looking too theatrical. ‘As it’s quite a youthful look, you want your skin to look fresh and youthful too,’ she explains.

Time to indulge in a little colour therapy…

Mix ‘n Match
MIX ’N’MATCH

‘Colour is a great way of enhancing your eyes so if you’re finding it hard to decide on a colour combination, simply go for ones that really make your eyes pop,’ says Brown. ‘While every colour can be flattering on any eye providing the tone is right, as a general rule purples and blues work well on brown eyes, while warmer tones contrast well with blue eyes.’ In terms of application, the beauty of this look lies in its organic, effortless feel so don’t worry about trying to get it perfect. ‘As long as your skin looks good and everything else looks groomed, you can be a bit more free with your application,’ explains Brown. ‘Concentrating on the inner half of your eye, simply use a brush (or your fingers) to sweep pigment onto your lids, blending out using a soft brush if you prefer a more diffuse look.’

TAKE TWO(OR THREE)

‘When introducing your second colour, remember to keep the darker colour to the outer part of your eye,’ says Brown. ‘Not only is it more flattering as it helps to elongate the eye for a feline effect, it also adds dimension. To finish, simply take a small blending brush – or your fingers if you’re using cream formulas – and gently meld the two colours together where they meet for a subtle ombre look.’ Here, Brown decided to add a third dimension with a pop of red floating just above the inner corners of the eyes.

Skin is in
Take Two (or Three)
TAKE TWO(OR THREE)

‘When introducing your second colour, remember to keep the darker colour to the outer part of your eye,’ Brown suggests. ‘Not only is it more flattering as it helps to elongate the eye for a feline effect, it also adds dimension. To finish, simply take a small blending brush (or your fingers if you’re using cream formulas) and gently meld the two colours together where they meet for a subtle ombre look.’ Here, Brown decided to add a third dimension with a pop of red floating just above the inner corners of the eyes.

Get lashed
GETLASHED

‘A swipe of black mascara will really help to anchor the look and provides a nice contrast against the colours of the eyeshadow,’ says Brown who recommends curling your lashes before applying two coats of volumising mascara for eyes that shout “party”. ‘Finish with a touch of balm or sheer nude lipstick on the lips,’ she advises. 

Products used: Shiseido Perfect Hydrating BB CreamNARS Single Eyeshadow in GangesNARS Extreme Effects Eyeshadow PaletteNARS Single Eyeshadow in Sultan, MAC pigment in Rose, and NARS Climax Mascara in Explicit Black.

Your colour pop kit

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