Edwin: the Japanese denim brand championing authentic craftsmanship

Founded in Tokyo in 1947, Edwin was born out of one man’s passion for jeans. Yonehachi Tsunemi was a denim aficionado who imported jeans from the United States, as there were no manufacturers in Japan at that time. By 1961, the brand was crafting its own denim, and in 1963, created what was then the world’s heaviest ringspun version. Always forward-thinking and innovative, Edwin also claims to have invented the ‘old wash’ (a way to make new jeans look and feel worn in) in the 1970s and stone-washing in the 1980s.

Lighter, softer jeans have since become the industry norm, but traditional, unwashed styles such as Edwin’s Rainbow Selvedge remain the gold standard for denim aficionados. ‘We wanted something that was truly about heritage and authentic denim,’ says Helen Spencer, Partner & Buyer, Men’s Branded Casualwear.

Authentic may seem a strange word for Japanese denim, given that jeans were originally made in America. But when American mills changed from ring-spinning to the more efficient open-ended spinning method from the 1950s onwards, the Japanese revived the older way, which rewards the extra time and cost with distinctive characteristics.

’Raw denim hasn't undergone any sort of washing or distressing processes, leaving it stiff and full of deep-blue indigo dye,’ explains Niels Mulder, denim designer at Edwin Europe. ‘In time, and after many wears and washes, that allows the fabric to fade in a unique, personalised way to how the individual is wearing the jeans.’

Denimheads duly fetishise ‘fades’ that can take months or years to achieve, but can’t be fully replicated by artificial distressing. (It’s a myth though that you shouldn’t wash raw denim for months or years – in fact, it makes it brittle, as well as less than fragrant.)

In addition, raw denim takes some getting used to on account of its comparative weight and rigidity, although Edwin’s Rainbow Selvedge is lighter than the 1963 version. ‘The first few times you wear it, it feels different,’ says Helen. ‘But over time it relaxes and softens with your body to become the perfect fit for you.’ Edwin’s ED-55 in particular is ‘a great fit for all,’ says Helen. ‘It’s not too trend-focused or skinny.’

‘The ED-55 is the perfect everyday jean,’ echoes Niels. Its rise – the distance from crotch to waistband – is mid as opposed to low or high, so there’s less risk of being too tight or baggy, while the relaxed but tapered leg is comfortable without being loose around the ankle. ‘This creates a cut that sits on all footwear and is super-versatile for most customers’ style,’ continues Niels. All that’s left to perfect is your fades.