The pleats to be wearing this autumn

Like utility wear and florals, pleats are one of those micro-trends that constantly boomerang in and out of fashion. For the new season, they are back on the menu in a big way.

‘From box and knife to accordion, pleats were all over the autumn/winter 2019 catwalks,’ says Frankie Graddon, fashion journalist and co-founder of The Wingwoman. Not sure which is which? Here’s a quick guide to knowing your types of pleats: a box pleat is when two equal folds of fabric are folded away from each other – think school uniform skirts. This technique works well on occasionwear, like jacquard midi skirts. Knife pleats all face one direction and are neatly pressed, while accordion are the most intricate and resemble miniature knife pleats. Then there’s plisse, which creates more of a relaxed, crinkle effect. 

Lesson over, incorporating pleats into your wardrobe will add an instant touch of elegance and, says Frankie: ‘They’re the perfect way to bring movement and drama to an outfit.’

John Lewis & Partners’ luxury womenswear label Modern Rarity has made fluid pleats the star of its autumn collection. Its longline white shirt with a flowing, pleated back panel provides a fresh alternative to the tailored cotton classic, while the hanky hem skirts look directional with cashmere or simple tops and work well with knee-high boots.

The versatility of pleats makes them a great wardrobe multitasker; a pleated pinafore dress works just as well in the office as it will for an evening out, while pleated skirts can be dressed up or down with everything from formal shirts to casual T-shirts.

But when it comes to styling, be careful with proportions, warns Frankie. ‘Pleats will add volume to your silhouette so it’s wise to balance things out. For example, style a box-pleat skirt with a slim-fit top,’ she says. Alternatively, tuck a fitted white shirt into pleated trousers. 

Now you know your pleats – and how to wear them – pick a style you love and enjoy reaching for your new find season after season.